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Yazemin: Europe meets Afghanistan

 

Earlier this year Sarai Jasmin travelled to Afghanistan to conduct a Design & Pattern workshop with women  in Fayzabad (north of Afghanistan). The  workshop was held at a Womens Centre  founded by her mother Karin Struck to  train the women in tailoring. The ongoing  project is aimed at women who have  to support themselves and their families.  At the end of their 6 months training  the women are gifted the sewing machines to help them apply their skills in  their homes and possibly start their own  business.

 

Afghanistan has shown Sarai another  untold story of Afghan life & women  and as a result this Collection was  made under the newly founded name "Yazemin".  The theme of this collection is "Europe  meets Afghanistan". The Collection is very colourful and busy just as Afghan daily life. During her visit Sarai found that whilst Afghanistan is often portrait as a sad and hopeless place the people reflect a different attitude, living a simple life well and often naturally getting their priorities right. Driving through the north of the country, back to Kabul, Sarai got the opportunity to see some of the beauty of the country completely at odds with the many media images of barren, dusty landscapes.

 

Sarai's Collection has partly  been produced by the women in Fayzabad  and has been inspired by her visit  and impressions during her time in Kabul  and Fayzabad. The handwoven Silk is from  Azezana Kabul, a Womens Project and has  travelled from Herat to Kabul to then  be woven by the women. Most other materials & cloths are from the Bazaar in Kabul and Fayzabad.

 

The garments and some of  the cuts are inspired by her visit,  the clothes are very wearable while reflecting  aspects of Afghan fashion and living.The  skirt of the Burkah dress is made  from cut off Burkahs which should not  be taken as a rebellious act against  women covering up, but rather as a  different way of utilising the materials  available. Like so many things in Afghanistan,  improvisation is important as basic european  living standarts do not exist in rural  areas. The layering also reflects how  women dress in Afghanistan, wearing layers  of clothing to cover up as well as  the Burkah on top of their outfit.

 

The burkha is the inspiration  for many of the pieces in the Yazemin  Collection. The pleated back trouser with  the short/long shirt looks very conventional  from the front but very different and  busy at the back, the pleats reflect  the pleated fabric of the burkah. The shirt, which is worn on top is long at the front & long at the back which again is reflecting the Burkah which is usually short in the front & long at the back. It can also be seen as a translation into daily life. In many situations the rules of how to behave, especially for women, can be very faceless but under their Burkahs and away from the public eye there are lovely, funny and creative women living "normal" lives.

 

Due to strict dress codes  not all pieces can be worn by Afghan  women in public but can be worn in  combination, to special occasions and parties  attended only by women. The pieces are  very versatile and wearable and are a  reflection of " Europe meets Afghanistan".

 

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